Climbing expeditions Somoni (Communism) & E. Korjenevskaya peaks


Somoni (Communism) & E. Korjenevskaya peaks

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Somoni (formerly Communism) Peak (7495 m) - E. Korjenevskaya Peak (7105 m)Somoni (formerly Communism) Peak (7495 m) is the highest peak in the Pamir Mountains - the roof of the world, is located in the territory of Tajikistan between the mountain peaks of the Academy of Sciences and Peter the First.

The first ascent was affected by Eugenie Abalakov in 1933 by the route of the glacier Bivachniy side. He was a member of the expedition Tajiko-Pamir of the Academy of Sciences of the USSR. Their route was to climb to the peak by the glaciers Fedchenko and Bivuachniy, on the east side of the peak. Directly from the Samoni Peak flow several glaciers, the glacier Fortambek to the north ward, Bivachniy east ward and Garmo to the west ward. One of the features of the Pamir Mountains is the presence of an alignment surface and presence of névé plateau of Samoni Peak. For the climbers of high-altitude is one of the main indicators of climatic characteristics of the area of ascent is the amount of precipitation and cloudiness, wich primarily affect the success and safety of climbing. Classic climbing routes lead through the firn of plateau of glacier Fortambek and along the edge of glaciers Burevestnik, Valter and Borodkin.

E. Korjenevskaya Peak (7105 m) is one of 4 over-7000 meters summits in Pamir. It is located in territory of modern Tajikistan, in northern part of Academy of Science ridge, 13 km from Somoni (Communism) Peak. The top has been explored in 1910 by Russian geographer N. L. Korzhenevskiy and was named in sake of his wife Eugenia. The first ascension to the summit has been made along northern edge from Korzhenevskiy glacier on 22nd August of 1953 by expedition of Department of Sports of Association of Trade Unions under the command of A. Ugarov. The most safe and least difficult route of ascension begins from Moskvin glacier and passes along the Southern edge (V. Tsetlin's route, 1966). Base Camp located at 4200 m where Valter and Moskvin glaciers merge is the optimum starting point for climbing Somoni (Communism)(7495 m) and E. Korjenevskaya (7015 m) peaks.

Base Camp located at 4200 m where Valter and Moskvin glaciers merge is the optimum starting point for climbing Somoni (Communism)(7495 m) and E. Korjenevskaya (7015 m) peaks.

Duration – 31 days
Countries – Tajikistan
Time – July – August

Itinerary

Dates

Reserve day in case bad weather

Dushanbe – Jirgatal (car transfer)

26.07.2014

Jirgatal– Moskvina (flight)

27.07.2014

28.07.2014

Dushanbe – Moskvina – Dushanbe (flight)

11.08.2014

12.08.2014

Moskvina – Jirgatal(flight)

24.08.2014

25.08.2014

Jitrgatal – Dushanbe (car transfer)

24.08.2014

25.08.2014

Program for 2014:

Day1. 26.07.2014. Arrival to Dushanbe airport. Meet and transfer to the hotel. (Accommodation will in 2* hotel if your arrival will be early morning). Rest till noon.Getting the necessary documents and OVIR registration.Transfer to mountain village Jirgatal (6-7 hrs of drive).Overnight in the tent in the garden of Jirgatal airport.

Days 2 - 3. 27.07 - 28.07.2014.Flight to Moskvina Base Camp.

Days 4-16 28.07 - 10.08.2014. Acclimatization & Ascensions activities.

Days 17-18 .11.08 - 12.08.2014.Flight Dushanbe – Moskvina Base Camp - Dushanbe.

Days 19 -29. 13.08 - 23.08.2014. Acclimatization&Ascensionsactivities..

Day 29-30. 24.08 - 25.08.2014.Flight to Jirgatal and then transfer to Dushanbe.Accommodation in hotel. Overnight.

Day 31. 26.08.2014 - Transfer to the Dushanbe airport. Departure.

Cost of the program (Full Package) = 2200 € per pax.

The cost includes:

  • Registrations
  • Meeting and seeing off at Dushanbe airport
  • Transfers Dushanbe – Jirgatal - Dushanbe
  • Helicopter or plane flight from Jirgatal to Moskvina Base Camp and the return with the personal baggage till 30 kg/pax (extra luggage charge is €4,5 for each kilo over the appropriate limit)
  • Accommodation at 2* hotel in Dushanbe (1night on your arrival and 1 night en the end of program)
  • All transfers according the program
  • 3 times meals in BaseCamp
  • Accommodation in the tents at Base Camp
  • Using of Base Camp infrastructure (shower (4 times), sauna (2 times), water, toilet, electricity, storage, medical tent)
  • Medical services (by professional doctor) in BC
  • Electric supply 220V; 50HZ
  • High-altitude guide consultancy services
  • Registration at rescue team

Cost of the program (Small Package) = 1300 € per pax.

The cost includes:

  • Registrations
  • Meeting and seeing off at Dushanbe airport
  • Transfers Dushanbe – Jirgatal - Dushanbe
  • Helicopter or plane flight from Jirgatal to Moskvina Base Camp and the return with the personal baggage till 20 kg/pax (extra luggage charge is €4,5 for each kilo over the appropriate limit)
  • Accommodation at economy hotel in Dushanbe (1night on your arrival and 1 night en the end of program)
  • Using of Base Camp infrastructure ; place for your tents, water, toilet, electricity, storage, medical tent)
  • Electric supply 220V; 50HZ
  • High-altitude guide consultancy services
  • Registration at rescue team

Additional services of Base Camp (which are not included in the price of the programs) on 2014:

Accommodation in the tents (per 2 people). Each tent have - electric lighting, wooden decks with mattresses

8-10€/день

Meals:

Breakfast

10€

Lunch

15€

Dinner

15€

Shower

5€/one visit

Sauna

10€/ one visit

Newgascanisters (230 mg)

8€

Filling of gas canisters (230 mg)

3€

Satellite phone

according to price list of the Base Camp

Internet

according to price list of the Base Camp

Bar

according to price list of the Base Camp

Rent of altitude tent

7€/day

Rentofradiostation

5€/day

Services of a mountain guide

48€/day

Services of porters for ascending:

4200-5300 m

8€/kg

5300-5800m

12€/kg

5800-6300m

20€/kg

Above 6300m

28€/kg

Note! For taking part in expedition insurance not lesser that 30.000€ needed!

Attention to alpinists:

!!! In cases of the force-majeure circumstances all additional expenses made by the client are paid by the client.

!!! We kindly ask all climbers who wish to visit Tajikistan, must have an insurance policy (from a reliable insurance agency), for their own safety in case of emergencies in the mountains. The amount your insurance must be maximum € 30 000 to cover the anticipated cost a possible air search. Otherwise, we do not be able to provide our services

// It is recommended to have following equipment for ascension: