Pobeda peak 7439m

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Pobeda peak 7439mPobeda Peak is located south of the ridge of Tengri Tau, covered by eternal snow in the mountain region of Tien Shan, as otherwise stated in the Heavenly Mountains - the largest mountains in the world. Pobeda Peak is a technically difficult mountain. First, it is one of mountains in the world that extends more than seven thousand meters. Secondly, the weather in the region is so unpredictable and rigorous. That's why it took a nick-name - "Treacherous Corner" as a peak meritorious. Even in summer it may burst a snowstorm like a clap of thunder with winds of 150 km / hrs and the visibility will be zero, and suddenly it will stops. In winter, this region is even more serious. Therefore in winter there is nothing to do for the Mountaineers. The most popular route to access to the Pobeda Peak, is the northern ridge of the peak Vaja Pshavela. The most difficult route is in the center of the north wall of Pobeda (as well as the ascent route was first performed in 1956 by a team of climbers of Abalakov VM). The most popular route (which was established by D. Medzmariashvili in 1961) is West (6918m) of Pobeda Peak, via the Dikiy Pass (5200m). We recommend that route, if even the tactics of ascent depends on the level of your experience and the conditions on the mountain. All aspects of the program can be adapted according to your preferences.

Best time to climbing: July – August

Duration – 29 days – 29 days

CountriesKyrgyzstan

FULL PACKAGE (Base Camp “South Inylchek”)

PROGRAM

Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek, transfer to hotel, accommodation at hotel.
Day 2. Transfer Bishkek - Karkara (460 km), accommodation at the Camp.
Day 3. Fly by helicopter to BC “South Inylchek” (4000m).
Day 4-22. Acclimatization and Ascension.
Day 23. Reserve day (in case of bad weather).
Day 24. Ascension and descend to the Camp 5.
Day 25. Descend to the Camp 1.
Day 26. Descend to the Base Camp. Rest.
Day 27. Fly by helicopter to BC “Karkara” and drive to Bishkek. Accommodation at hotel.
Day 28. Day in Bishkek.
Day 29.Transfer to the Airport, departure home.

Cost of full package for 2011 year is 1400 Euros per person.

Full package includes:

  • Meeting/seeing-off at Airport in Bishkek.
  • Transfer Airport – hotel - Airport in Bishkek.
  • Transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back.
  • Helicopter flight to BC and back.
  • Unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back.
  • Accommodation at hotels in Bishkek breakfast included.
  • Accommodation at the Karkara camp, full boarding.
  • Accommodation in double tents with full boarding at BC “South Inilchek“
  • Free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“.
  • Consultancy service of local guide.
  • Consultancy of doctor.
  • Registration with local Rescue Party.
  • Ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC.
  • Usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service.
  • Rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents.
  • Usage of fixed ropes on the route.
  • Change of air-flight and railway tickets.
  • Frontier zone permit.
  • Official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed).

Cost of minimal package is 800 Euros per person.

Minimal package includes:

  • Helicoper hop to BC and back for the personal load up to 30 kg included (overweight is charges separately at 3 Euro per each extra kilo).
  • Free usage of toilet and cloak room at BC "South Inylchelek".
  • Consultancy service of local guide.
  • Consultancy of doctor.
  • Registration with local Rescue Party.
  • Ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC.
  • Usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service.
  • Rent of ultra-short waves radios during ascents.
  • Usage of fixed ropes on the route.
  • Change of air-flight and railway tickets.
  • Frontier zone permit.
  • Official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan.

The cost does not include:

  • The cost of Kyrgyz visa.
  • International flight.
  • All optional deviations from the main itinerary.
  • Beverages and meals not included in main menu.
  • All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.).
  • The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending.
  • The rent of mountaineering equipment for ascending.

Guide services, rent of tents for high camps or some services are available fro the additional payment:

Price-list for services in BC “South Inylchek”
Services in BC Price
Mountain guide (for program) 1 client 1600€
2 clients 900€
3 clients 750€
Mountain porter (per 1 kg) BC (4000m) – C1 (4200m) 2€
C1 (4200m) – C2 (5300m) 8€
C2 (5300m) – C3 (5700m) 16€
Gas canister (230ml) 5€
Mountain tents rent 50€ per program
International call by satellite telephone (per minute) 3€
Use of Internet 20€/hour

* Note: Cost of porter services must be calculated for both ascending and descending.

Schedule of helicopter flights in 2011:
July 3.07.2011 10.07.2011 17.07.2011 24.07.2011 27.07.2011 31.07.2011
August 3.08.2011 3.08.2011 9.08.2011 13.08.2011 20.08.2011 27.08.2011

For ascending Pobeda Peak it is better for you to have following equipment:

  • Garments, footwear - a standart high-altitude set.
  • Camp gear - a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standart), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates and dishes;
  • Climbing gear - ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 X Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots;
  • High-altitude foodstaff.