Climbing expeditions


Climbing expeditions to highest peaks of Central Asia

Somoni (Communism) & E. Korjenevskaya peaks

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Somoni (formerly Communism) Peak (7495 m) - E. Korjenevskaya Peak (7105 m)Somoni (formerly Communism) Peak (7495 m) is the highest peak in the Pamir Mountains - the roof of the world, is located in the territory of Tajikistan between the mountain peaks of the Academy of Sciences and Peter the First.

The first ascent was affected by Eugenie Abalakov in 1933 by the route of the glacier Bivachniy side. He was a member of the expedition Tajiko-Pamir of the Academy of Sciences of the USSR. Their route was to climb to the peak by the glaciers Fedchenko and Bivuachniy, on the east side of the peak. Directly from the Samoni Peak flow several glaciers, the glacier Fortambek to the north ward, Bivachniy east ward and Garmo to the west ward. One of the features of the Pamir Mountains is the presence of an alignment surface and presence of névé plateau of Samoni Peak. For the climbers of high-altitude is one of the main indicators of climatic characteristics of the area of ascent is the amount of precipitation and cloudiness, wich primarily affect the success and safety of climbing. Classic climbing routes lead through the firn of plateau of glacier Fortambek and along the edge of glaciers Burevestnik, Valter and Borodkin.

E. Korjenevskaya Peak (7105 m) is one of 4 over-7000 meters summits in Pamir. It is located in territory of modern Tajikistan, in northern part of Academy of Science ridge, 13 km from Somoni (Communism) Peak. The top has been explored in 1910 by Russian geographer N. L. Korzhenevskiy and was named in sake of his wife Eugenia. The first ascension to the summit has been made along northern edge from Korzhenevskiy glacier on 22nd August of 1953 by expedition of Department of Sports of Association of Trade Unions under the command of A. Ugarov. The most safe and least difficult route of ascension begins from Moskvin glacier and passes along the Southern edge (V. Tsetlin's route, 1966). Base Camp located at 4200 m where Valter and Moskvin glaciers merge is the optimum starting point for climbing Somoni (Communism)(7495 m) and E. Korjenevskaya (7015 m) peaks.

Base Camp located at 4200 m where Valter and Moskvin glaciers merge is the optimum starting point for climbing Somoni (Communism)(7495 m) and E. Korjenevskaya (7015 m) peaks.

Duration – 31 days
Countries – Tajikistan
Time – July – August

Itinerary

Dates

Reserve day in case bad weather

Dushanbe – Jirgatal (car transfer)

26.07.2014

Jirgatal– Moskvina (flight)

27.07.2014

28.07.2014

Dushanbe – Moskvina – Dushanbe (flight)

11.08.2014

12.08.2014

Moskvina – Jirgatal(flight)

24.08.2014

25.08.2014

Jitrgatal – Dushanbe (car transfer)

24.08.2014

25.08.2014

Program for 2014:

Day1. 26.07.2014. Arrival to Dushanbe airport. Meet and transfer to the hotel. (Accommodation will in 2* hotel if your arrival will be early morning). Rest till noon.Getting the necessary documents and OVIR registration.Transfer to mountain village Jirgatal (6-7 hrs of drive).Overnight in the tent in the garden of Jirgatal airport.

Days 2 - 3. 27.07 - 28.07.2014.Flight to Moskvina Base Camp.

Days 4-16 28.07 - 10.08.2014. Acclimatization & Ascensions activities.

Days 17-18 .11.08 - 12.08.2014.Flight Dushanbe – Moskvina Base Camp - Dushanbe.

Days 19 -29. 13.08 - 23.08.2014. Acclimatization&Ascensionsactivities..

Day 29-30. 24.08 - 25.08.2014.Flight to Jirgatal and then transfer to Dushanbe.Accommodation in hotel. Overnight.

Day 31. 26.08.2014 - Transfer to the Dushanbe airport. Departure.

Cost of the program (Full Package) = 2200 € per pax.

The cost includes:

  • Registrations
  • Meeting and seeing off at Dushanbe airport
  • Transfers Dushanbe – Jirgatal - Dushanbe
  • Helicopter or plane flight from Jirgatal to Moskvina Base Camp and the return with the personal baggage till 30 kg/pax (extra luggage charge is €4,5 for each kilo over the appropriate limit)
  • Accommodation at 2* hotel in Dushanbe (1night on your arrival and 1 night en the end of program)
  • All transfers according the program
  • 3 times meals in BaseCamp
  • Accommodation in the tents at Base Camp
  • Using of Base Camp infrastructure (shower (4 times), sauna (2 times), water, toilet, electricity, storage, medical tent)
  • Medical services (by professional doctor) in BC
  • Electric supply 220V; 50HZ
  • High-altitude guide consultancy services
  • Registration at rescue team

Cost of the program (Small Package) = 1300 € per pax.

The cost includes:

  • Registrations
  • Meeting and seeing off at Dushanbe airport
  • Transfers Dushanbe – Jirgatal - Dushanbe
  • Helicopter or plane flight from Jirgatal to Moskvina Base Camp and the return with the personal baggage till 20 kg/pax (extra luggage charge is €4,5 for each kilo over the appropriate limit)
  • Accommodation at economy hotel in Dushanbe (1night on your arrival and 1 night en the end of program)
  • Using of Base Camp infrastructure ; place for your tents, water, toilet, electricity, storage, medical tent)
  • Electric supply 220V; 50HZ
  • High-altitude guide consultancy services
  • Registration at rescue team

Additional services of Base Camp (which are not included in the price of the programs) on 2014:

Accommodation in the tents (per 2 people). Each tent have - electric lighting, wooden decks with mattresses

8-10€/день

Meals:

Breakfast

10€

Lunch

15€

Dinner

15€

Shower

5€/one visit

Sauna

10€/ one visit

Newgascanisters (230 mg)

8€

Filling of gas canisters (230 mg)

3€

Satellite phone

according to price list of the Base Camp

Internet

according to price list of the Base Camp

Bar

according to price list of the Base Camp

Rent of altitude tent

7€/day

Rentofradiostation

5€/day

Services of a mountain guide

48€/day

Services of porters for ascending:

4200-5300 m

8€/kg

5300-5800m

12€/kg

5800-6300m

20€/kg

Above 6300m

28€/kg

Note! For taking part in expedition insurance not lesser that 30.000€ needed!

Attention to alpinists:

!!! In cases of the force-majeure circumstances all additional expenses made by the client are paid by the client.

!!! We kindly ask all climbers who wish to visit Tajikistan, must have an insurance policy (from a reliable insurance agency), for their own safety in case of emergencies in the mountains. The amount your insurance must be maximum € 30 000 to cover the anticipated cost a possible air search. Otherwise, we do not be able to provide our services

// It is recommended to have following equipment for ascension:

Lenin Peak 7134 m

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Lenin Peak 7134 m

Duration – 21(20) days
CountriesKyrgyzstan (Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan)
Time – July – August

Lenin Peak (7134m) is situated in the middle of Transalai ridge on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan.
The first ascension to Lenin Peak was made on September, 25th, 1928 by German climbers E. Allwein, E. Schneider and K. Wien, participants of complex expedition of Academy of sciences of the USSR.
The climate of Lenin peak is characterised by sharp contrasts. In the bottom part it is moderated, and in a high-mountainous zone becomes close to polar type. The summer – short, cool and even cold, lasts from June till August. Lenin peak is one of the most accessible among exceeding 7000m summits. Character of the ascension along classical route (through Razdelnaya Peak) does not demand application of high techniques of mountaineering, and weather conditions is mostly nice. But it is necessary to remember that this top exceeds 7000?, and it demand from climbers good physical preparation, acclimatization and strong will.

Khan-Tengri peak, 7010m

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Khan-Tengri peak, 7010m

Best time to climbing: July – August
Duration – 21 days
Countries: Kyrgyzstan

The beautiful pyramid of Khan Tengri is without doubt the Jewel of the Tien Shan. It is the second highest mountain in this most northerly and remote of the great Asian mountain ranges. Among the local people, the white peaks are known as 'The Heavenly Mountains'.
Khan Tengri was first climbed by a Soviet expedition in 1931, via the West Col and West Ridge. Since then, most of its ridges and faces have been climbed - all by Soviet teams.
We offer a classical route - from the south, gaining the Western Col from the Southern Inylchek glacier. This approach is most popular among climbers. Depending upon the conditions prevailing at the time, it is likely that 3 or 4 camps will be used to climb Khan Tengri.

Muztag Ata peak 7546m

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Muztag Ata peak 7546m

Duration – 27 days
CountriesKyrgyzstan, China

Muztag-Ata (7546m) is one of the highest and the most popular summits of Pamir. Its name is translated with Turkic as "the Father of ice slopes". It is the third on height top of Pamir after Kongur (7719m) and Kongurtjube (7595m). 16 glaciers go down from an ice dome of Muztag-Ata. The largest – Koksel - located on an East side of mountain, has length of 21 km. In the centre of the western slope of top there is a huge failure in which ice falls and feeds a glacier of Kartamak flowing down on this failure.
Accordingly at the left and to the right of a failure on top two "classical" routes rise. The first successful ascension on Muztag-Atu was carried out by the Soviet-Chinese expedition in 1956.
On July, 6th the big expedition headed by E.A.Beletsky and leaders of commands of K.K.Kuzmin and Shi Zanchunom, has reached by cars of base camp 4060 at a mountain foot. On July, 31st on top have ascended 19 Soviet and 12 Chinese climbers.

Pobeda peak 7439m

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Pobeda peak 7439m

Best time to climbing: July – August
Duration – 29 days 29 days
CountriesKyrgyzstan

Pobeda Peak is located south of the ridge of Tengri Tau, covered by eternal snow in the mountain region of Tien Shan, as otherwise stated in the Heavenly Mountains - the largest mountains in the world. Pobeda Peak is a technically difficult mountain. First, it is one of mountains in the world that extends more than seven thousand meters. Secondly, the weather in the region is so unpredictable and rigorous. That's why it took a nick-name - "Treacherous Corner" as a peak meritorious. Even in summer it may burst a snowstorm like a clap of thunder with winds of 150 km / hrs and the visibility will be zero, and suddenly it will stops. In winter, this region is even more serious. Therefore in winter there is nothing to do for the Mountaineers. The most popular route to access to the Pobeda Peak, is the northern ridge of the peak Vaja Pshavela. The most difficult route is in the center of the north wall of Pobeda (as well as the ascent route was first performed in 1956 by a team of climbers of Abalakov VM). The most popular route (which was established by D. Medzmariashvili in 1961) is West (6918m) of Pobeda Peak, via the Dikiy Pass (5200m). We recommend that route, if even the tactics of ascent depends on the level of your experience and the conditions on the mountain. All aspects of the program can be adapted according to your preferences.

Big walls of Karavshin

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Big walls of Karavshin

Duration – 21 days*
Countries – Kyrgyzstan (Uzbekistan)
Time – July – September

Did you want to reach more and more new highs? If they are located in a paradise place! So we invite you to visit our country, the country on the edge of the Rocky Mountains. It is located in southwestern Kyrgyzstan, a mountainous region of Pamir-Alai, very similar to the rocky mountains of South American Patagonia, but the height of the rock walls of these mountains reach over 2000 m. Many rivers bring their purest water from these Rocky Mountains. There are the rivers like Laylak, Karavshin, Ak-Suu, Kara-Suu, Orta Chashma, Uponum and many others. This area is located in a picturesque mountain area. This means clean air and beautiful sceneries.

The unique peaks in the region of Ak Su - Karavshin are more complicated and therefore more attractive for climbing in these mountains. Everyone can choose his own his route according to his interests. And the fans of technically difficult climbs there are many interesting routes, from relatively simple to very complicated. If you want to test your strength, agility, flexibility and endurance, be sure you will find it. There are the picturesque Peaks like Ak-Su (5355m), Block (5299m), Iskander (5120m), Pyramidalnaya (5509m), Asan-Usan and 1000 years of Russia.